If you’re like most people, your basement does double or even triple duty. It might be a laundry room as well as a workshop, and there’s probably an area used for storage, too.
So, what if you want a basement renovation that carves out an area for some living space? Will you have to move all the other types of areas to another part of the house?
Not at all. The secret is to utilize space-economizing methods to create a multi-use basement that serves many needs.
Analyze Your Needs for the Basement
The first step in this type of basement conversion is to analyze the current uses in the area and look for ways to make them more efficient so they can take up less space. Consider:
- Investing in a stackable washer and dryer and a hinged table that you can fold up when you’re not doing laundry. Remodeling contractors can help you determine where and how to incorporate this, and make sure your laundry area is plumbed correctly.
- Including movable floor-to-ceiling shelves for all those storage boxes and bins. Organize and consolidate the contents so you have fewer containers to store.
- Using shelves or work tables mounted on rolling bases to organize tools, crafting supplies, or household equipment. You can roll it out of the way when it’s not in use.
Creating a Multi-Use Basement
After your areas are well-separated, use curtains, folding partitions, or interior walls to delineate them. This helps make sure things like lint, dust, and wood chips don’t find their way into your living space. Try to put push these “work areas” to one side of your basement so the area closest to the stairs or exterior door contains the new living area.
The basement renovation area can be walled off from the rest of the basement and even have a different flooring from the rest of the basement. You can add heat, recessed lighting, and new ceiling coverings to improve the warmth and appeal of the new space.
Consider using a remodeling contractor to finish off the new living area. Experienced contractors can design the project in a way that lets you eventually expand the room, if you choose. They know which types of flooring work best on basement concrete, and can help you get proper permits for the renovation, as well. A home with increased square footage of living space has an increased market value.
Be sure to select a basement remodeling contractor with references. Check them out with the Better Business Bureau and your state contractors’ board. A good contractor can give you all you were hoping for, and more, in a basement remodel.
10 Steps to a Perfect Caulking Repair Job
February 1st, 2010 by admin
Caulking around tubs and sinks is a simple task, but it is one of the most important home repair jobs you could handle. Water seeping into small cracks and crevices can quickly lead to thousands of dollars worth of damage to your home.
Steps for a Successful Caulking Project
Protect your investment with a little time and a good amount of high-quality caulk. Here’s how:
- Remove all the old caulking using a razor scraper and a utility knife, if necessary. Clean the entire area to remove all the old residue. Let it dry thoroughly before applying the caulk.
- Inspect the area where you have removed the caulk. If you see rotting wood or mold, you have a more serious repair job on your hands. Stop your work and call a professional handyman to help. If you don’t see damage, carry on!
- Cut the tip of the caulking tube at an angle, and puncture the nozzle’s seal. Load the tube into the caulking gun and press the plunger forward until it touches the back of the tube.
- Using both hands to keep the line steady, press the tip of the nozzle where you want to begin caulking and gently squeeze the trigger.
- When the caulk begins to flow, guide it along the edge, filling the area with a thick bead of caulk. Use firm, steady pressure.
- When you have filled an area, let go of the trigger. It might take a few seconds for the caulk to stop flowing.
- Now it’s time to shape the caulk. Dip your fingertip into a bit of mineral oil (or baby oil, if that’s what you have on hand) and run your finger over the caulking, smoothing out the bead. Take your time in spreading the caulk, but don’t press too hard–you want a thick seal.
- Wipe off excess caulking with a paper towel and continue along the bead until you have smoothed out the whole section.
- Repeat the process until you’ve caulked along the entire edge. Inspect your work and perform touch-ups if necessary.
- Don’t use any water in the area until the caulking has dried thoroughly. Depending upon the type of caulk used, the drying time could take a few days.
Finally, a bonus tip: If you are caulking a bathtub, fill the tub halfway with water while you work. The weight of the water pulls the tub away from the wall just the slightest bit, and makes for a tighter caulking job.
About the author: Shannon Dauphin is a freelance writer based near Nashville, Tennessee. Her house was built in 1901, so home repair and renovation have become her hobbies.
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10 Steps to a Perfect Caulking Repair Job
6 Easy Steps to Dry Rot Repair
December 8th, 2009 by admin
Moist wood is the perfect breeding ground for fungi. As the fungi grow deep in the damaged wood, the tiny spores eat away at the wood and create new spores in the process. The result is wood that is cracked, porous, and unstable. This is known as dry rot.
Steps to Dry Rot Repair
If the dry rot is found in a weight-bearing area, the wood should be torn out and completely replaced. However, dry rot repair can be done in place for areas like baseboards, window frames, and trim. Here’s how:
- Eliminate the source of moisture. There’s no point in repairing an area that will be damaged again. Find the source of the moisture and eliminate it before you proceed.
- Dig it out. Remove as much of the dry rot area as you can, and undercut the area so the filler you use will stay in place.
- Prep the surface. Drill shallow holes around the margin of the wood, creating tiny “cups” that will hold liquid. Then fill the holes with a “wood hardener” liquid that protects the surface and gives the filler something to hold onto. You can choose a one-step treatment or an epoxy blend. If you have trouble getting the liquid into the little cups you drilled, use a turkey baster.
- Fill it up. Choose a high-quality wood filler and carefully mold it to the area, pressing it into place. If the dry rot area is large, cut a piece of wood a bit smaller than the area, embed it in the filler, and nail it in. Fill the space around it with putty until the area looks as it did originally. The putty allows the wood to expand and shrink naturally without forming cracks in the repaired area.
- Sand it. After the filler has had time to cure, sand it smooth. Sand the surrounding wood, as well, to create a smooth, elegant line.
- Prime and Paint. Use a high-quality primer and allow it to dry before brushing on the paint. More than one coat might be necessary to make the area look uniform.
When to Call a Professional
If you have a wide area of dry rot or feel uncomfortable with dry rot repair, stay on the safe side and call a contractor to handle the job for you. If the dry rot is in a weight-bearing area of your home, calling a professional will give you the peace of mind of knowing the job is done, and done well.
About the author: Shannon Dauphin is a freelance writer based near Nashville, Tennessee. Her house was built in 1901, so home repair and renovation have become her hobbies.
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6 Easy Steps to Dry Rot Repair