Your pristine garage floor won’t stay that way for long without a protective coating. Epoxy coatings help keep your garage floor beautiful by protecting it from oil stains, gasoline spills, and more. Epoxy coatings are also available with anti-skid additives that can be your best friend during a rough winter.
Applying Epoxy to Your Garage Floor
Putting an epoxy coat on your garage floor is easier than you might think. These simple steps can be done in a weekend and can give you a garage you’re happy to show off!
- Prepare the garage floor very carefully. Repair all cracks, potholes, and other imperfections. Make certain the floor is scrupulously clean in order to have the perfect epoxy coating when you’re done.
- Apply plastic sheeting to the lower sections of the walls and seal it with painter’s tape. Check the floor one more time to make certain it is completely clean.
- Use an etching solution on new or bare concrete. Work in small sections, and take the proper precautions around the chemicals. Allow the solution to dry thoroughly before continuing.
- Blend the epoxy paint and epoxy hardener according to package directions. Be aware that the chemicals heat up as they react; this is normal. Set the can in a cool, dark place for 30 minutes or so.
- You must use the epoxy within two hours, so work quickly to paint the garage floor. Use a wide paintbrush to cut into seams, edges, and corners. Keep the area well-ventilated!
- Roll the paint onto the floor, covering small sections at a time, just as you would paint a wall in your home. Let it dry for 12 to 24 hours before you apply a second coat.
- As you apply the final coat of paint, pause after every section to apply the colorful flakes. Sprinkle them evenly through your fingers as if you were spreading seed on the floor.
- Mix the topcoat just as you mixed the hardener and epoxy. Let it sit for 30 minutes before use. If you want to use anti-skid additives, mix them in with the topcoat.
- Apply the topcoat in the same way you applied the epoxy paint. It has a chalky color when wet, but don’t worry–it dries perfectly clear.
Wait for up to 72 hours before walking on your new garage floor. When the topcoat has finished curing, your garage floor is gorgeous and ready!
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10 Interesting Ideas for New Storage Areas
April 27th, 2010 by admin
Small homes can be charming, but all that charm can offer unique challenges, especially in the storage department. That’s why those who love small houses have to get creative! These ideas can help you find the hidden storage options in your home:
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Build a storage area underneath the stairs.
That dead space underneath the stairs would make a great bookcase, built-in chest of drawers, and even a wine rack.
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Long sitting benches in the hallway double as great storage units.
A long, high bench can offer deep storage options while adding space to sit and rest a spell.
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Try a floor-to-ceiling bookcase at the end of the stairway landing.
The large bookcase offers not only great storage, but a nice way to showcase your favorite things.
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Consider a “through the wall” bookcase.
A bookcase that fits into the middle of a wall, with sides open to two rooms instead of one, turns your actual wall into unexpected storage space.
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Lift up your beds!
Put your beds on 12-inch risers, then use the space underneath for handy clothes trunks and rolling storage bins. You can have plenty of extra space without doing any construction on your home.
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Look up at the ceilings.
A long shelf about a foot below the ceiling, or a shelf tucked right over a door can make for great storage of those little things you like to display, but really can’t find the room for elsewhere.
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Make space do double-duty.
Does that breakfast nook fit the kitchen perfectly, but your office area is a bit too close for comfort? Consider moving breakfast to the eat-in kitchen and turning that area into your office. It might not be the most conventional plan, but it’s a creative option!
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Opt for cabinets with built-in storage features.
That lazy susan in the corner cabinet or that fold-out pantry beside the sink are all unexpected ways to make unused kitchen spaces work for your storage needs.
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Make creative use of your attic.
Create a small playroom, office area, or built-in bookcases that fill the entire attic knee space.
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Look inside your closets.
Do you have space for shelves above the clothes racks? Consider installing shelves, boxes, and other storage options to your closets to hold the odds-and-ends that don’t seem to fit in well anywhere else.
Make creative use of your small house by incorporating storage into the most unlikely of places. When it comes to small houses and lots of stuff, don’t be afraid to think outside the box!
About the author: Shannon Dauphin is a freelance writer based near Nashville, Tennessee. Her house was built in 1901, so home repair and renovation have become her hobbies.
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Home Wiring: Top Tips on What to Look for In a New Home
April 16th, 2010 by admin
If you’re looking for a new home, you know that home buying is exciting and stressful in equal measures. A property purchase might be the largest investment you ever make, so it is important to invest wisely. One advantage of buying a newly built property is that the wiring should meet the electrical, communication, and entertainment needs of today’s lifestyles, as well as being adaptable to future developments.
Before buying a new home, ask for details of the home wiring infrastructure.
- Wiring configuration. “Daisy-chain” wiring, where the wiring is run from one room to the next, is not appropriate for modern home wiring. All outlets should be wired directly from a centrally located structured wiring box.
- Electrical wiring coverage. Check how many electrical outlets the property has and where they are located.
- Surge protection. New homes should have a whole house surge protection network that includes transient voltage surge suppression (TVSS) devices at the service entrance as well as point-of-use TVSS devices located behind major appliances, PCs, and entertainment centers. This is critical to prevent damage caused by surges in power such as those from lightning or from a faulty component on the circuit.
- Home telephone wiring. Each telephone outlet should be connected to the central panel by a unshielded twisted pair (UTP) cable. All telephone wiring should be Category 5e (Cat5e) cable comprised of 4 twisted pairs of “solid” copper cable. The structured wiring panel inside the house should be connected to the Demarc box outside the property by a Cat5e cable. Each telephone outlet should be connected to the structured wiring panel with a 4-pair Cat5e cable.
- Home data wiring. A modern home needs a local area network (LAN), which enables all computers in the network to share other devices such as a printer, and allows data to be stored centrally so that each workstation does not necessarily need its own hard disk, and stored data and application packages can be retrieved from any workstation. Wireless offers convenience but does not have the same level of speed, security, or reliability offered by wired home data networks.
- Video distribution. Any TV source should be viewable in any room of the house. RG6 coaxial cable should connect all video sources to the central structured wiring panel and two RG6 cables should connect to each TV location. TV and Internet outlets should also be available at the video locations to allow for pay-per-view or other services.
Remember, even if you do not have a high-tech lifestyle, you may want to sell your home one day. Having a full structured wiring package makes your home much more marketable in the future because the home wiring can be adapted to incorporate new technologies with minimal disruption.
About the author: Karin has worked as a freelancer for over ten years, writing informatively about a wide range of subjects. She has a PhD and a background in education and research.
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Adding a Mudroom to Your Home
April 13th, 2010 by admin
People often assume that home room additions require lots of space and a large budget; however, adding a mudroom won’t eat up your yard or empty your yearly vacation budget. Creating mudrooms can be economical home room additions.
You can convert space you already have to build a mudroom, or add on a small additional room to create it. Then, after playing or working in your backyard, you can tidy up in your new mudroom. Keep in mind the following five elements as you make your room addition plans and while you interview remodeling contractors.
The Perfect Mudroom Location
A mudroom is all about location. Think about the most-used entryway in your house. This is where most people choose to place a mudroom. You can convert a small front porch into a mudroom or turn part of any existing room into a mudroom. It’s best to enclose the room–having four walls securely surround the area ensures less chance of tracking in outdoor messes to the rest of your house.
Ideal Mudroom Flooring Choices
Choose a slip-resistant, durable floor that can be exposed to the outdoor elements without showing wear and tear. Good options include textured rubber, ceramic tile, and unpolished stone tile. Choosing a dark floor color helps hide the dirt. The ultimate mudroom accessory is a floor drain, making cleaning an easy chore. Or, station your room addition near an outdoor hose, so people can wash off before coming into the mudroom.
Mudroom Storage Options
Who is likely to use the room and what do you plan to store in it? If you have children, make the storage area user-friendly for them, with coat and backpack pegs at kid-level and color-coded bins for each family member. If you want to store sports equipment, plan ahead to make sure it all fits. Think about designing custom-made storage bins and shelving, or peruse container stores for items that may fit your needs. Shoes and boots need a place to dry and be stored, as well.
Mudroom Furnishings and Wall Decor
Include a bench or a few sturdy stools in your room addition plans so you can sit down while you pull off your rain boots. When pondering wall coverings, think about easy-to-clean options, such as vinyl wall paper, high gloss paint, or wainscoting.
You get a lot of bang for your buck with a mudroom addition. The rest of your house can stay clean and perhaps your family can enjoy being more organized, too.
7 Home Repairs that Simply Cannot Wait
April 1st, 2010 by admin
How often have you seen a small repair problem around your house and made a mental note to do something about it, but never got around to it? The longer you hold off on those minor home repairs, the bigger they could become, and then you have a serious financial issue.
Small Repairs to Make Right Now!
Don’t fall into the trap of paying big bucks for a major repair that would have cost only a few dollars if you caught the problem in time. Here are a few repairs that require your quick attention:
- Dry and splintering wood floors. Over time, your wood floors can weather to a mellow patina–but without proper care, that handsome look can turn to splinters and dry, cracking wood. Avoid this with regular sanding and coats of polyurethane to protect the floor.
- Soft deck boards. Soft and bowed deck boards are a first sign of rot and instability. Inspect your deck by walking on every board, and if you feel one of them “give” a bit more than others, it’s time to replace it before the minor problem becomes a major hazard.
- Bowed or damaged clapboard. Clapboard that does not fit properly can let water in, leading to decay and insect damage. Inspect your clapboard regularly and replace any boards that are bowed or damaged.
- Peeling paint. Blistered or peeling paint can cause the wood underneath it to rot. Remedy this situation by putting a fresh coat of paint on all the areas that seem to be deteriorating.
- Gutter clogs. Clogged gutters can’t channel water away from your home like they should, and the result is often water damage to your foundation and exterior walls. Empty out your gutters every year during the spring and fall.
- Old caulking and grout. Old caulking might allow water in to the area around your tub and shower, leading to serious mold problems. Old grout can lead to water damage under your carefully-laid tiles. Avoid this by keeping your grout and caulk fresh and new.
- Unruly trees. If tree branches hang over your home, they can lead to significant damage during a storm. They also provide ample opportunity for squirrels, rats, and the like to invade your home. Avoid this major problem by trimming the trees that are a potential hazard.
Check every spring and fall for these minor repairs, and make them as quickly as you can. The sooner you follow up, the easier it is to keep your home looking beautiful.
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Why Your Basement Remodeling Plans Must Include Testing For Radon
March 30th, 2010 by
Test Your Basement for Radon Before Remodeling
If your basement remodeling plans include adding living space to your home’s lower level, it is imperative to test for, and if necessary, to mitigate for radon. Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that has been found to cause lung cancer. The EPA estimates that 1 in 15 homes in the U.S. has elevated levels of radon.
Radon is most commonly found in your home’s basement, where it collects after seeping through the small cracks and seams in your foundation and floor slab.
How Do You Test for Radon?
Testing for radon is simple, and Do-It-Yourself kits are inexpensive and widely available at home improvement stores. Testing kits measure radon in Pico curies per liter of air, or pCi/L, and the EPA estimates that the average indoor radon level is 1.3 pCi/L. Although it is thought that no level of radon in your home is completely safe, it is worth noting that 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air.
If your first test indicates that your home’s level of radon is 4 pCi/L or greater, you should call a radon mitigation specialist. By using more accurate testing equipment, these specialized remodeling contractors can confirm your home’s radon level and recommend mitigation systems that can help solve the problem. Fixes can include sealing the cracks in your concrete floor with silicone caulk or installing a fan-driven venting system under your basement slab.
Sub-slab Venting Systems for Radon Mitigation
If a sub-slab venting system is the recommended solution, you will be glad that you tested for radon before the new basement flooring was installed. Cutting a trench in a basement floor is messy, difficult work, but it is the only way to place the needed vent pipe under the existing slab. The easiest conditions to mitigate are those prior to pouring a cement slab in your basement, but most often this situation is only available during new construction.
Because installing an active venting system requires digging up your basement floor and drilling through your home’s roof, it is recommended that you consult several remodeling contractors before beginning a project of this scope. Fortunately, a well-installed mitigation system can reduce the radon in your home to a worry-free and acceptable level.
Radon in your basement is a serious problem, but it can be dealt with successfully. Testing for radon in your basement is the first step on the path to a radon-free home.
6 Steps to Choosing a Masonry Contractor
March 18th, 2010 by
If you have concrete, brick, stucco, or stone anywhere in or around your home, you might eventually need to hire a masonry contractor for repairs and renovations. But where should your search begin? These tips can help you get started on the road to project success!
Choosing a Masonry Contractor
Many homeowners make the mistake of choosing a masonry contractor based on a low bid for their project. Before you start accepting those bids, check out the contractors and create a short list of those you might like working on your property. Here are a few tips on narrowing the search:
- Educate yourself. Learn everything you can about the requirements of your project. Start by exploring online forums, renovation and building sites, and other interesting tidbits that show up in a search engine. The more you know about your project, the better prepared you are to hire the appropriate contractor to handle the job.
- Ask around. You can find a wealth of information from those who have dealt with the same home repair and improvement projects. Ask coworkers, friends, and family about their experiences. Approach your neighbors and ask about that great retaining wall they just had built, or the recent repairs on their stone wall. If they are happy with the job, put their contractor on your short list.
- Check for certification. The Mason Contractors Association of America offers a certification program for masonry companies. Certification requires completion of approved classes, a comprehensive exam, and continuing education to keep certification up-to-date.
- Reputation matters! Check out masonry companies with the Better Business Bureau. Look online for reviews, but keep in mind that anonymous reviews should be taken with a grain of salt. Speak to vendors or supply stores about the people you are considering; who would they recommend?
- Meet face-to-face. Invite each masonry contractor on your short list to come out and look at the project. Are they enthusiastic about handling the job? Do they try to pressure you into expanding the project? Do you get a good feeling about them and their abilities?
- Ask for bids. If you are impressed with a masonry contractor, ask for their bid on the project. Try to get at least three bids for the work, then compare them. Remember that the lowest is not always the best. Compare warranties, guarantees, and other factors that might make one contractor rise above the rest.
Get that masonry work done right the first time by hiring a certified, experienced masonry contractor. You’ll be glad you took the time to get the best!
Wading Through the Storm Door Options
March 11th, 2010 by admin
Storm doors offer many benefits for your home. They improve security and offer a nice view, while optional screens allow fresh air to circulate. In addition, storm doors with the Energy Star label might help lower your energy bills and qualify for a tax credit or rebate.
Choosing the Best Storm Door
Not sure where to start when choosing a screen door? This quick primer can help:
- The vast majority of storm doors are sold as pre-hung units. Someone handy with a screwdriver could install a new storm door in an afternoon, though more expensive or heavy doors might need professional installation. Measure your door before you go shopping; most pre-hung doors are available in 30-, 32-, 34-, and 36-inch sizes.
- Most storm doors offer window screens. In some cases, the glass panel can be clipped out and replaced with the screen. Many models offer screens that slide on tracks alongside the glass panels, and can be opened and closed with a simple flick of the wrist. Other versions offer hidden screens, which can be slid into the lower panel of the door for storage.
- When you purchase a screen door, you aren’t limited to what is in the box. Many companies offer mix-and-match purchases. You choose the door, then the glass, and then the hardware–there are several options for each.
- Consider the construction of your storm door. Cheaper models are usually made of vinyl, and though they might look good, they don’t come with promising warranties. A solid wood core with an aluminum coating is a popular and sturdy option. Composite doors are very tough and last for a long time, but come at a higher price.
- Do you want a storm door that adds security to your home? Consider security storm doors with a wood core and heavy-duty aluminum frame. You can also opt for aluminum bars, which are both secure and decorative. A secure storm door should have excellent locking capability, as well.
- Look at the warranty. The best storm doors have a lifetime warranty, and are made by a company that has been around long enough to back it up!
When you choose your storm door, don’t forget to ask about a door kit. Several pre-hung storm doors come with a kit in the box, but if you aren’t sure, ask! Purchasing a door kit from the same manufacturer can ensure your door’s seamless performance.
10 Steps to a Perfect Caulking Repair Job
February 1st, 2010 by admin
Caulking around tubs and sinks is a simple task, but it is one of the most important home repair jobs you could handle. Water seeping into small cracks and crevices can quickly lead to thousands of dollars worth of damage to your home.
Steps for a Successful Caulking Project
Protect your investment with a little time and a good amount of high-quality caulk. Here’s how:
- Remove all the old caulking using a razor scraper and a utility knife, if necessary. Clean the entire area to remove all the old residue. Let it dry thoroughly before applying the caulk.
- Inspect the area where you have removed the caulk. If you see rotting wood or mold, you have a more serious repair job on your hands. Stop your work and call a professional handyman to help. If you don’t see damage, carry on!
- Cut the tip of the caulking tube at an angle, and puncture the nozzle’s seal. Load the tube into the caulking gun and press the plunger forward until it touches the back of the tube.
- Using both hands to keep the line steady, press the tip of the nozzle where you want to begin caulking and gently squeeze the trigger.
- When the caulk begins to flow, guide it along the edge, filling the area with a thick bead of caulk. Use firm, steady pressure.
- When you have filled an area, let go of the trigger. It might take a few seconds for the caulk to stop flowing.
- Now it’s time to shape the caulk. Dip your fingertip into a bit of mineral oil (or baby oil, if that’s what you have on hand) and run your finger over the caulking, smoothing out the bead. Take your time in spreading the caulk, but don’t press too hard–you want a thick seal.
- Wipe off excess caulking with a paper towel and continue along the bead until you have smoothed out the whole section.
- Repeat the process until you’ve caulked along the entire edge. Inspect your work and perform touch-ups if necessary.
- Don’t use any water in the area until the caulking has dried thoroughly. Depending upon the type of caulk used, the drying time could take a few days.
Finally, a bonus tip: If you are caulking a bathtub, fill the tub halfway with water while you work. The weight of the water pulls the tub away from the wall just the slightest bit, and makes for a tighter caulking job.
About the author: Shannon Dauphin is a freelance writer based near Nashville, Tennessee. Her house was built in 1901, so home repair and renovation have become her hobbies.
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10 Steps to Protect Your Plumbing from the Deep Freeze
December 21st, 2009 by admin
When cold weather hits, emergency calls to plumbers skyrocket. Why? Many homeowners neglect simple plumbing protection until it’s too late. Do all you can to prevent frozen or burst pipes by keeping these guidelines in mind:
- Plan ahead! Don’t wait until the last minute to protect your plumbing–by then, it might be too late. Take steps to protect your pipes as soon as colder weather is in the forecast, at least several days in advance.
- Protect pipes where they enter your home. Close your foundation vents, and use simple insulation to prevent cold air from coming in. Don’t forget to open the vents back up in the spring!
- Detach all hoses and outside lines. It might seem like a simple thing, but many homeowners forget this vital step. Drain your water hoses and put them away in winter storage. Turn off or disconnect pipes to outdoor water sources, such as that water garden in the backyard.
- Close off your outside faucets. Most homes have a separate valve for the outside faucets. Turn the valve off, then go outside and run all the water out of the faucets.
- Can’t drain outside faucets? Protect them! Molded foam covers are a great help, as well as fiberglass and plastic insulators. For a quick fix, even newspapers and old rags molded around the faucets and held in place with plastic and duct tape works.
- Drain your sprinklers. Many homeowners forget about the sprinkler system, and that can lead to a plumbing nightmare. Check with the manufacturer to learn how to turn the system off.
- Insulate pipes in unheated areas. Pipes in your basement, attic, crawlspace, and even exterior walls are vulnerable to the elements. Insulate them with molded pipe sleeves or insulating tape.
- Open lower cabinet doors. It might not be the most attractive look, but keeping your cabinet doors open during the coldest weather allows more warm air to circulate around the pipes.
- Run the water. When the temperature takes a serious dip, run a bit of cold water out of the tap. A steady drip or small stream of water helps keep the lines open and prevent freezing.
- Make vacation plans for pipes. When you are leaving your home for several days, turn your water system off. Turn off the main valve and run every faucet until the pipes are drained. Don’t forget to do this with your washer, too!
Early preparation is the key to avoiding a plumbing headache. Take these steps now, before Mother Nature gets to your plumbing system!
About the author: Shannon Dauphin is a freelance writer based near Nashville, Tennessee. Her house was built in 1901, so home repair and renovation have become her hobbies.
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